Eunny Knits

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

 

Time Flies

Good grief. Has it seriously been a month and a half already? It's sort of shocking the way days, weeks, months fall out of the year while I'm not looking.

At any rate, here we are in the thick of Winter press week. We're all hustling up and down stairs, passing galleys from desk to desk, having last-minute brainstorms and last-minute panic attacks. For the most part, though, magazine production runs like a well-choreographed football play: Everyone knows what he or she needs to bring to the table to make the group effort successful. There are hiccups here and there, sure - but generally, the process is remarkably smooth.

It's been well-reported that this is my first publishing job. Though I've been working as a freelance writer for several years (and more recently, as a freelance designer), it's true that this is my first time working on the other side of the publishing equation. There's been a pretty steep learning curve associated with it: a whole new industry to learn the ins and outs of, beyond the usual new-job bumps and curveballs. But it's been fascinating, as well - I'm a knitter first, and it took a long time for me to stop geeking out over how cool it is to learn how a knitting magazine works. As we close this issue, I thought I'd share a little bit about the long, long road to press day.

Here's how the timeline works:

7 months out: We concept the issue, developing loose themes for refining later. I'm very focused on making the most of the new format, and finding out what we can do with it - one thing we're trying is structuring the garment "stories" around constructions, techniques, or fibers, with articles that further illuminate the topic. Taken together, they read as little explorations into what a knitter can do with a particular knitting technique, type of sweater, or type of yarn - samplings of the depth and breadth of possibility in handknitting. At this stage, we come up with ideas for story/article pairings that might work - linen yarns? Allover lace? Color work for the summertime? - and send out storyboards to guide and inspire contributors.

Working this far out has a whole host of peculiar problems and challenges. For one thing, it's just plain strange to plan a summer issue when the leaves are falling off the trees, or a winter issue when it's just beginning to warm up and you don't want to think any further than the first jump in the pool. For another, it's scary to take a gamble on what might be hot - color, fiber, silhouette, and knitting-wise - when the magazine finally hits the newsstands half a year later. We do get some help in the form of color, fabric and shape forecasts from the fashion industry, but there's a lot of legwork involved as well: we scour runway shows (what's big in couture one season will trickle down to ready-to-wear by the next year or so), keep up-to-date on emerging fibers, stay current with blogs and web communities. This isn't to say that we're trend-driven, per se: We want our magazine to feel fresh, but to be full of projects that'll be wearable for seasons to come. It can be a hard line to walk!

A few months out: Design submissions come back, and we select projects that we think will be fun to knit, as well as wearable. We look for designs that make great knitting sense: that can mean a perfect marriage of yarn and shape; or elegant ways of solving potential problems; or wonderful details; or unique, effective constructions; or clever ways of incorporating traditional techniques or patterns...it can mean a lot of things. We rework and fine-tune the stories and themes at this point to reflect the best of what we received, contact designers, and order yarns.

To be continued!

Edit: Here's a terrible cell phone cam photo of "my" press day cube (I come to CO for a week or a week and a half for every press day, and camp out in this cube in the Knits office):


The wall to the left has covers from Gifts and Fall pinned up, and possible Winter covers in the corner. Below those is the Winter issue's map - the giant puzzle organizing editorial and ads in every issue - and the desk is piled with folders containing the most current version of every spread in the magazine. Not pictured: Me, slightly hyperventilating and with crazy eyes.

Comments:
Now This is fascinating info to me! And would love to see pics of how some of this works!
 
How important is it, really, for the designs in IK to match the designs on fashion runways? I don't want to be dismissive of people who are into fashion, but I know that one of the many things that appeals to me about knitting is that I can choose to make garments that match my own personal fashion, regardless of what the people who know and care about popular fashion are stocking the department stores with. In fact, you could probably fill an issue with designs that were fashionable 5 or 10 years ago (and presumably not today?), and I'd have no idea that they were not in style.

Am I an atypical IK reader? I honestly don't know. I do recognize that there are rather large fashion differences when you go back decades or generations. But the year to year shifts are completely lost on me.
 
(Upon rereading the above, I realize it can come off as a criticism. It's not -- just curiosity.)
 
She's back! Yay!
I am filled of awe and respect when I think of how much work goes into the issues of a knit magazine. Just for the record, I think you're doing a great job so far - I'm knitting more patterns from the Fall 07 issue than I ever have from a single knitting mag before.
For the most part, I do agree with Rebekkah's protest; I couldn't care less about current fashions and prefer to make the things that flatter and please me, regardless of what is in style. However, I have found that IK seems to do a wonderful job of presenting a touch of modernity with classic, long-lasting patterns. So, yeah, keep up the good work!
 
Very cool to see (hear, read) how it all works behind the scenes.

It's nice to read your blog, we miss you around here.
 
It's coole to see (hear, read) how it all works behind the scenes.

It's nice to read you again too, we miss you around here.
 
I wish that you didn't feel the need to apologize as the first thing in your posts. I really enjoy what you did before you went to Interweave Knits and I really enjoy what you have done in the new magazine and I am sincerely happy whenever you have the time to post - and that is absolutely regardless of how seldom or often you do it.
 
Hi Rebekkah!

Your point is certainly valid. We're not necessarily married to current trends and fads (as I said, I wouldn't call us "trend-driven") - after all, it may not be worth it to spend months knitting something that will only be "hot" for a few weeks. That we pay attention doesn't mean that we try to emulate everything (or even most things) we see happening in fashion - after all, you can always go to the mall if you want every hot new thing right away. I was trying to emphasize that we focus on good knitting and being relevant at the same time...that we realize the two aren't mutually exclusive, and how we deal with the challenge of walking that line.

 
I have been wondering how you choose which designs to include in the magazine. Thanks for giving us more insight into the process! I am a fairly new subscriber, and I've noticed that the designs in your magazine always seem to have elements, sometimes subtle, that are also present in the clothes showcased in the fashion industry magazines on the racks at the same time. That's what I love about IK. I feel like whatever I knit out of the magazine will be fashionable in a classic way without being so trendy that I won't want to wear it a few years from now. Like Nancy, I, too, would love to see pictures of how some of this works.
 
Go Eunny, Go!

Thanks for the enlightening post and hope you don't go crazy!
 
It is amazing how IK remains classic but fashionable at the same time! Like, how did Eunny know that purple would be the hot color this fall? The Tilted Duster from Fall 07 Knits would be gorgeous in any color, but in that shade of lilac it's right on trend.
 
I am a graphic designer, knitter and sometimes writer. Yes, there is a learning curve to putting together a magazine. But there is a logic to it, and every job, no matter what field, what employer you move to has a learning curve. Don't beat yourself up. Breathe. I can't tell you how many times I have had to call the printer in a panic to tell them to stop printing an issue, we have found errors in something and yes it was proofread to death, and then there are people that believe that deadlines don't apply to them, and in your case specific yarn is discontinued, samples come in late, there is a problem with the yarn (it is suppose to be dk weight as opposed to bulky! Arghhh) Do I need to go on? But on the flip side the fall issue sold out. You do have a talent for what you do ( I am envious!) and hopefully you are doing something you love. There are courses and professional groups in Baltimore and DC that can help your learning curve, in addition University of Baltimore offers a Publication Program (masters) and while you may not have the time to take all the classes there are some that would help you out should you want to pursue this further. Contact me offline if you wish my perspective as I graduated from the program. As you venture into this area you will appreciate all the hard work and also you will learn from any errors (yours or others) and you will look at competition and see things that work well and things that don't. You are not reinventing the wheel, just shaping it for a better ride. I'll stop for now because this is getting too long. But you and the staff are great! Right now you are the only one I subscribe to!

Patty
 
Also re: the Fall 07 Tilted Duster cover sweater -- how did IK know 7 months ago that Origami fashions would be in vogue this fall? This detail is subtle, but again it makes IK "classic but fashionable." This process of projecting trends in color and design for knitters must be the most fascinating part of your job.
 
Just wanted to let you know that your doing a fabulous job. I've been a fan of your knit designs and when I saw the last issue come out I was super impressed...to the point of even subscribing to the magazine.

One thing that I was happy to see was more pictures of each project and having the item in focus...seeing blurry pictures was awful.

Keep up the great work. Can't wait to see the next issue!!
 
On the subject of current vs. classic, I wanted to say that one of the things I so treasured about your (Eunny's) blog pre-IK was this same marriage: designs that were in-line with current fashion trends but that were classic at the same time.

I think there might be a misunderstanding for some about the meaning of "trends". Being current and fresh doesn't necessarily mean "trendy". In knitting, it often seems like patterns aren't just "not trendy", they're wayyyy behind the times -- in terms of amount of ease and shaping mostly -- and it's really nice to see designers whose pieces reflect what people are wearing now. Small details (amount of taper in a sweater's sleeves, or the close fit of a set-in sleeve vs. looser fit of a drop-shoulder) can make a tremendous difference in the wearability of a garment. And these kinds of details are what signal, to me, how well a designer is attuned to current trends.
 
Very interesting! These must be exciting times for you! Enjoy!
 
It's so good to hear from you! I have to say that as I went through my fall issue (which was late, because I moved), I did keep thinking, "This is Eunny's first issue!" -- like I really know you! I think many of us feel like we know you, and are excited by what you're doing at our favorite knitting magazine.
 
Welcome back to blogworld! It looks to be exciting and scary at the same time over there. :) The Holiday IK issue looks good. I can't wait to see it! you guys keep teasing us w/ the previews!
 
How silly do I feel for trying to crane my neck around to the right to try to see the winter covers pinned to the far side of your bulletin board. As if that was suddenly going to make them visible. <:)
 
As I was reading this, I was going mentally "Yes, yes." Admittedly, editing/reporting/running a school newspaper doesn't involve thinking ahead 6 months, but it does require thinking ahead a week or a couple weeks at a time, which feels funny, too.
And thank you for, as you said "focusing on good knitting and being relevant" I really, especially lately, have preferred Interweave to Vogue (I say "lately" partially because I didn't get to read Interweave much until this spring and because I haven't liked many Vogue designs since Fall '06.) The fall issue was lovely.
 
Um. That looks remarkably like my cube... ;) Good luck this week!
 
So nice to see you post again! I've MISSED your blog so much!!

And this is SOOOO fascinating!! Thanks so much for sharing it with us ;)

Happy to see you're settling in, but I never had a doubt! Keep up the great work!
 
Can't wait to see how you guys put together the winter issue, Eunny. And sneaky you for posting that completely oblique view of possible winter covers... :) Thanks for your view of what the process is like. Oh, to be a fly on the wall during press week!
 
Enjoyed reading about the process and loved the fall issue. I do think it's important to know what's happening on the runways, but is it my imagination or are fashion designers presenting more knitwear lately? I think they are following hand knitting trends straight out of IK!
 
Glad to hear you're in the swing of things. Me, I couldn't do it. Nice that you can work from home, but you must rack up a heck of a lot of frequent flyer miles! To each his own.

I have a random question, and figured I'd ask it here: Where did you get the size US00 needles for your Print O' The Wave Stole? I have been searching high and low, have the cobweb weight yarn, and cannot find that size in anything but DPNs! Addi makes a size US00, but it's actually 1.5mm, not 1.75mm, so it's actually a US000.
 
Let me preface this by saying I don't know you--but I feel like I do!!

I didnt realize you had been a freelance writer--but I knew you certainly COULD be--AND a designer!! I MISS your blog--it was my favorite read, and so informative and fun. I'm SO happy for you though, for being chosen to be the editor of my favorite knitting magazine. I can't tell you how nice it is to see someone I feel is so deserving of this--just because you so generosely gave us so many beautiful patterns.

Congratualtions--I hope you're having the time of your life. I can't WAIT to get my Fall issue in the mail.
 
FUN!!! reading about your job is so interesting. i hope to see you posting here more often! can't wait for the winter issue!
 
I am eagerly anticipating the Winter issue and know it will be just as fabulous as the Fall issue was with you at the helm. Great job, Eunny! Where would we in the knitting world be without you???
 
Eunny,

This is off the topic thread, but on your old blog, you mentioned your pattern for Almost Argyle socks would be ready in July 2006. I have written twice before to find out where I can purchase/obtain the pattern but have never had a response. Realizing you are extraordinarily busy, is there someone who, on your behalf, could respond?
 
As other commenters have said, I appreciate the unified picture an issue of IK presents -- patterns and articles that go with the "theme" for the issue. To that end, I certainly understand requesting designs that match the theme from contributors you know and trust. I'm curious, though, how much room you leave for new designers? To what extent are you willing to accept designs sent in out-of-the-blue by people you've never worked with before? I have a friend who used to submit designs that way and had a couple published, and I know that's how Veronik Avery got her start, but perhaps the design field is too competitive to allow that now...?
 
Eunny! The upcoming winter issue looks incredible, can't wait!
 
IK has been my favorite knitting magazine since i discovered it not long after starting to knit 4 years ago. The patterns are fashionable--and realistic--something other mags who strive for the knitted garment as an art statement could learn from. YOu cemented your place in my heart with the always funky Knitscene!

The Holiday IK is very inspiring. Thank you for giving us all new patterens--the gauntles are already on my needles.

Your fresh new look and layout are fantastic. I just renewed my subscription, and I eagerly await getting the Winter IK delivered right to my door! Keep up the good work!
 
You lucky woman! I would love to be in your err... cube! [I've been too ill to work for years, but your description made me yearn for those exciting stressful times. Not all stressful times are exciting, but this sure seems like it is!]

And by lucky, I did not mean to imply that you aren't also extremely talented!!

charli
charlizeen on yahoooooooooooooooo
 
hey eunny! great to see ya back in blogland! the new issue looks awesome. can't wait to get it in my hot little hands.
 
I find it amazing to see how things work behind the scenes. Especially since I started to dream up patterns a year ago... writing them down constantly :-) Glad to read that you're blogging again as well
 
MORE POSTS!
 
People are missing you in Blog land Eunny! Please start blogging again!!!
 
Eunny, where are you??
 
I guess blogging has definitely gone down the ditch.
What a shame.
All people want is a little post once in a while, (And maybe some pictures)which doesn't take long. It could be a once a month post, and people would be satisfied.
 
Thanks for the little peek into the interweave world. It sounds hectic. I think you all do a fabulous job of picking designs! I love the magazine.
 
Congrats on the job!!!! So exciting. I've been following your blog for a while. I have a question about blocking...I'm knitting a sweater and it's looking pretty bulky but a friend of mine told me that if I block it out and shape it a little more that will probably help. Can you point in me in the right direction of a "how to block"???
 
this summer has just flown by!!!
 
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